Category Archives: Sewing

The Quest for a Cotton Blouse – Part 1

I am well aware that most off the shelf patterns will not fit me. In the past I have sewn primarily with jersey and stretch fabrics to allow greater ease of fitting over my curves. I fear lawn cottons and making successful Full Bust Adjustments and moving darts to get a cotton blouse to fit. However, I decided it was time to face my fears!

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I chose the “Portrait Blouse” from Gerties New Book For Better Sewing to be my first project. I decided this was a good starting point as the construction is quite simple, with bust darts and waist tucks. The fit is also quite loose and flowing allowing some leeway in the fitting process.

I started with the size 14 pattern included with the book. This was the best fit for my waist measurement and high bust measurement. I followed the The Curvey Sewing Collective guide to a FBA. After some research and hunting around online I found this the clearest and easiest to understand guide.

I added a 1″ FBA in order to grade it up to an E/F cup size. This looked a reasonable size when the pattern paper was pinned to the dressmaking dummy. However when I put the calico toile on its easy to see that this hasn’t solved my problems at all!

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As you can see from this picture on the dummy, the adjustment is actually too large! I think Gertie’s pattern allows more boob room than it gives itself credit for. The first step was to redo the FBA but at 1/2″ this time.

It can also be seen from the toile that the bust darts actually sit very low on my bust, not at the widest point. Therefore I need to rotate the dart and raise the point by 1″ so the bust apex of the pattern sits on my natural bust apex. I also raised the centre/end point of the waist tucks/darts by 1″ as well in order to accommodate the new high bust apex.

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Here’s the new pattern piece with adjusted bust apex, rotated dart tip, 1/2″ FBA and adjusted waist tucks. I’m hoping this will actually result in a shirt that fits. I have never before noticed that the bust apex was part of the problem. I have just always struggled with repeatedly trying different sized FBAs and still not managing to make the patterns fit.

Pledges, Pledges, Pledges

Right added sewing motivation time!

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Firstly after careful consideration its time to make my Vintage Pledge 2016 my Vintage Pledge 2016

During 2016, I, Melanie Keable pledge to work towards sewing a vintage inspired wardrobe. As part of this I will sew 6 blouses from vintage or reproduction vintage patterns, and a vintage or repro vintage jacket.

I think these are the key items I am worried about making for my new wardrobe. I think making the pledge will give me some added incentive to work on this. The fist shirt pattern I will be looking to work with is simplicity 1590 retro 40s blouse featured in my last post.

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I am also planning on taking part in the big vintage sew along hosted by the McCall pattern company. I have selected McCalls 7086 1960s dress. I really like the silhouette options, and the gathered details across the front waistband. I think this is a vintage style pattern I would wear on a regular basis. The temptation to go through a buy lots of the patterns selected for the vintage sew along is huge! However, I’m going to resist until after this one is made.

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Patterns Patterns Patterns – Planning a new wardrobe

IMAG0059Now that I have a nice mostly empty wardrobe its time to start planning what to sew! I have been trying to come up with a look that’s mine, something that makes me feel good. In order to do that I need to set some basic ground rules. Here’s what I have been thinking so far:

1/. Select a mix of bright jewel colours paired with darks and neutrals. Mostly black, navy, grey, burgundy with yellows, deep greens and reds. This way I will be able to unsure that items of clothing I am making will go with other things in the wardrobe. I often wear a lot of dark colours so introducing some light patterns and brighter colours into my wardrobe will be refreshing.

2/.  Select classic silhouettes with a nod to the 40s, 50s and early 60s. These classic styles with high nipped in waists, flared and wiggles skirts emphasis my curves and make me feel elegant. High waisted skinny jeans will always be more flattering than hipster fitting jeans that cut me off at my widest point. The point is not to create a costume, but instead select styles that don’t easily date and which look elegant and refined. Dressing for my body shape.

3/. Casual but classy. Pairing Jersey wrap dresses and full circle skirts with jackets and smart brogues. High waisted jeans with light cotton blouses and cardigans.

4/. Elegant work wear. Wiggle skirts with light cotton blouses. Fitted cotton dresses with tailored jackets.

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I have been looking through the patterns I have in stock and have come up with some key items that I think will help me with this. Along with Gertie’s books and some other patterns I have lurking I think I have the foundations of a good wardrobe.

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Trousers and shirts:

Between the classic cigarette pants and these jeans by Gertie for Butterick I think I should have the foundations to allow several different variations of trousers once I have a basic sloper fitted. I have a few collections of 50s and 40s style shirts I picked up in various pattern sales recently. These offer a range of style adjustments and options. I think that once I have conquered my fears of Full Bust Adjustments (FBA) and dart manipulation I will love having these to wear.

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Dresses

Classic styles like the shirt waist dress are still  popular today. A combination of full circle skirts and pencil skirts (like the one on the Loretta Jewel Neck pattern) will fit perfectly into what I have in mind.

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Coats and Jackets

A difficult one this – these are items of clothing I hate shopping for as I can never find fitted flattering styles that fit well. Time to remedy that with home sewing I suppose! I have a fitted jacket and coat pattern along with looser fitting 60s and 50s style short jackets. I think these will work well when teamed with trousers, skirts or over some of the dresses mentioned above.

Large Scale Sewing Projects

Well so much for using the blog to keep me motivated! The last couple of weeks have been very hectic with work for my PhD unfortunately. Although I have managed to complete a couple of large scale sewing projects.

I have, however, had an excellent opportunity to collaborate with a good friend of mine on her exciting new project. I have recently sewn some envelope cushions for Miss Joy Books over at The Joy Book Club for her latest book subscription box.

Envelope cushions are a very nice quick sewing project which can really change the feel of a room, and instantly brighten a space. I have a standard pattern I use for sewing standard 18″ (45 cm) cushions.

Begin by cutting a rectangle 40″ by 18″. Mark 11″, 18″ and 11″ down the long length – these will be your fold lines.
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Hem the two short ends on the rectangle, I usually just turn up a 1 cm hem. Fold these ends into the middle down the fold lines. Make sure the hemmed edges are facing up (so the right sides of the cushion are together). Pin the fabric in place and sew the two side seams together, again using a 1 cm seam. Turn the cushion inside out and press.

Voila! Instant cushion.

(I am aware I am using a jumble of inches and cm in this explanation. I blame my mum for teaching me to sew cushion covers and only working in inches)

Here is the cushion cover with the finished design from the Joy book club box. A lovely themed gift to go with the book of the month.

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Generally the Book boxes contain and surprise book (something you might not have heard of, a good read but a bit different) and a series of gifts. The first few boxes have had scented candles, perfume, delicious Italian macrons, nut triangles, book themed playlists, and interesting facts amongst the contents. A couple more pictures from the lovely début box in January below. If you love a good book and nice treats in the post each month I highly recommend checking out The Joy Book Club and sharing the #BookJoy

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I have also managed to do a fair amount of sewing as part of my PhD (much to my supervisors surprise). I have been getting to grips with sewing heavy duty waterproof gortex into tents. Its slippery and requires careful tension adjustments, not to mention being very heavy to hold while sewing. Thankfully I don’t have to sleep under my own home made tents. Instead they are protective covers for statues instead.

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I learned the hard way that ordering 25m of fabric comes with many problems in terms of cutting out pattern pieces… I had to remove most of the furniture in my living room in order to lay out this out in stages to cut out the pieces!